Zennor to
I had hoped to enjoy the walking today but 36 hours’ abstinence from the nurofen had done little to ease the angry itch.
Some incredible tin mines – both ancient and modern – provided a welcome distraction for the first part of the day but losing the path and taking an even harder section sapped my energy by lunchtime. Even the incredible views at
Throughout the afternoon,
Gwithian to Zennor – 16 miles, 8 hours, Moderate then Severe
I picked a good day to go to the doctor’s today. Whilst the boys were dragging themselves along the road around the estuary at Hayle, I was having my blistered rash diagnosed as an allergy to the rather large quantities of nurofen that I had been consuming to numb the pain in my feet. Anti-histamines and anti-cortisone cream were prescribed together with a recommendation that I take paracetamol instead.
I joined the gang in St Ives, just ready for lunch in front of the Tate. They were demoralised from their tedious morning but I was buoyed up from the relief that there was a solution to my extreme discomfort. I was ready to tackle the afternoon’s section of severe path with renewed vigour.
A measure of Zennor-phobia proved to be justified though. The path was not so steep but the going was not good. When we weren’t clambering over huge granite boulders in order to make progress, we were tip-toeing or leaping over stretches of bog. JC dropped out, having walked the section on a previous vacation, and went, instead, to the Minor Injuries Unit to have his big toe inspected. Any excuse. All remaining walkers were relieved to reach the Tinners’ Arms and pints of local cider or ale.
St Agnes to Gwithian – 18 miles, 8 hours, Moderate and Strenuous
The landscape changed today. There were still blue skies and seas but tin mines and the odd lighthouse dominated the horizon. There were ponies grazing the cliffs rather than cows and a mysterious MOD tent had replaced the jets from RAF St Mawgan.
My rash persisted and I developed a very bad temper as a secondary symptom.
Newquay to St Agnes - 14.5 miles, 8.5 hours, Moderate
We headed out of Newquay as fast as possible then I slowed down as my blisters got angrier.
The walking was gentle - just like the rain. We passed mine shafts and military training grounds. There were more jets from RAF St Mawgan and a paraglider.
I developed an extensive, itchy rash across my throat and hands for no obvious reason other than general exhaustion. Our resident nurse refused me a sick note though.
At the end of the day, we enjoyed a change of scene in the shape of a new campsite at Gwithian. Although the site wasn't very different to the last one, the view of a church spire, thatched cottage and pub was a welcome addition and perked me up.
Port Isaac to Newquay - 16 miles, 8.5 hours, Easy to Moderate
Fifteen years ago, I might have been thrilled to be heading for Newquay but today, I couldn't have been less keen.
The day`s walking started with more drizzle and I was part of a splinter group which refused to walk around Trevose Head. We cut across the promontory and took a well signed shortcut. It didn't stop the others catching us at lunchtime.
The views were no different from all those at which we had gasped earlier in the week. And my feet grew increasingly tired and sore. It was only the thought of Rick Stein`s fish and chips that me going past Fifteen Cornwall and on to nasty Newquay.
Port Isaac to Trevone: miles, 8.5 hours, strenuous then moderate
Today's route took us through Rock (aka South Kensington-On-Sea) then Padstow (as designed by Rick Stein). I much preferred Polzeath, if only for the name which conjured up images of smuggler and wreckers.
Outside the towns, the path was less crowded, the Exeter Young Ramblers Club having retreated to Devon at the end of the weekend and the casual strollers having been deterred by the persistent rain.
Our determination was rewarded by blue skies and sunshine after lunch. We strolled across the beach at Daymers Bay then caught the ferry from Rock to Padstow. Having cut out the estuary we set off down the peninsula for our day`s destination at Trevone.
Boscastle to Port Isaac: 13.5 miles, 7 hours, moderate then severe
The promised rain arrived as we drove to the start, first in the form of drizzle then a shower. Just what was needed for a day`s walking which included the steepest section of the whole path.
I had hoped that Tintagel would make for fine views this morning, rising out of the cloud, perched on the very edge of the land. But it didn't. No sign of Arthur either.
Fortunately the coastline beyond was stunning and a display by the rescue helicopter kept me entertained as I slithered down steep shale path (though I was a little worried at first that Debbie and Lorna had taken an ill-advised swim).
Even the threat of rain had disappeared by the time we arrived in picturesque Port Isaac and nipped into the Golden Lion for a quick reviving drink.
Bude to Boscastle: 17 miles, 8.5 hours
Felt strange waking up in the countryside this morning. I could hear grouse, wood pigeons, gulls, a crow and a rooster from my bed. The whole world seemed to be shrouded in a heavy dew and a light mist but the sun promised to burn through.
Lorna was very excited to be driving a bus when we set off for where we left off. And then Johnson welcomed us to Bude just like last time. It was as though we`d never been away.
I set off with a good pace and led the way, far ahead of the boys who were chatting too much.
By mile fifteen though, I was beginning to struggle, stumbling down what must have been the tenth river valley of the day. The weather was closing in, the clouds coming down and a strong sea breeze rising up. The cliffs were pitch black and the fields windswept.
I was delighted to reach Boscastle which looked all shiny and new following the rebuild necessitated by the flood which struck just after we completed the last section of the SWCP.
Upon our return to camp, Pamela`s tomato soup had a restorative effect and I managed to stay awake through dinner. I had forgotten how hard this walking business can be.
London to Padstow Touring Park: 280 + miles
Torrential rain around Bristol but journey otherwise smooth.
Breakfast in Bridgewater Services with two armed police officers.
Afternoon spent pitching luxury camp including ginormous mess tent with tables and chairs and fresh flowers.
Our tent features a double air mattress, pillows and high performance sleeping bags. We even had a mallet for knocking in our pegs. The joy of car ownership!
A long day of walking ahead of us tomorrow. Hoping that I`ll get used to the hills and cliffs again.
